Tekst geschreven voor Klassiek Centraal. Gepubliceerd klassiek-centraal.be/troldhaugen-thuis-bij-het-echtpaar-grieg-hagerup/ in 2019.
Verslag van een bezoek aan het huis van een groot componist: 16 juli 2019, zonsopgang 4u40, prettige temperaturen in een Noorse zomerse dag niet zo ver van Bergen, Noorwegen.
Edvard Grieg (Bergen, 15 juni 1843 – 4 september 1907) was een Noors componist en pianist die zowat elke muziekliefhebber kent. Vooral de Peer Gwynt Suite vond zijn plaats in menige platen- (cd of andere) collecties en werd deel van het collectief geheugen. Als muziekliefhebber is een bezoek aan het Noorse muziekheiligdom de omweg waard.
Aankomst iets voor 9u00. Enkele auto’s op de parking en enkele honderden meters wandelen tot de ingang van het schiereilandje.
We reden enige tijd door wijken met een min of meer verspreidde bebouwing op weg naar Troldhaugen. De wegen kronkelden zoals altijd in Noorwegen. De heuvels dwingen de weg. De Noren lijken de gewoonte te hebben om hun huizen te bouwen waar er plaats is of waar ze er zin in hebben: her en der verspreid. Dorpen kruipen de heuvels op. Hun vaak houten huizen lijken zo verstrooid als een reeks bikkels die willekeurig op de grond vielen.
Noren houden ook van hun blokhutten (hytter) waar ze graag tijdens hun vrije tijd huizen om te wandelen, vissen, langlaufen en zich tureluurs drinken. Ondanks de strenge alcoholwetten gaat het er niet zo goed moet het drankmisbruik – misschien daarom lopen er nog trollen rond? Ook hun houten minihuisjes poten ze met evenveel zin voor willekeur neer in hun mooie, woeste, uitgestrekte en geliefde land. De zomerse dagen zijn er lang en vaak niet eens zo warm. Wolken hangen soms lang en laag over de heuvels met regen in allerlei hoedanigheden. Als de zon eindelijk het grauwe verdrijft, lijkt een optrekkende wolk op de gigantische adem van een verborgen reus. De winternachten strekken zich over hele etmaal uit waar de stilte van de sneeuw het gehoor prikkelt. Sporen van elanden en trollen doorkruisen het witte tapijt. Hier groeide Edvard op, nog voor die bouwwoede.
We arriveerden vroeg nog voor de eerste buslading toeristen. Het moderne museumgebouw zwaaide net de deur open. Het beloofde een zonnige dag te worden maar nu was het nog relatief fris. De dagen beginnen er heel vroeg in de zomer zodat de Noorse zon tijd heeft om wolken op te lossen en warmte te genereren. De regen van gisteren droogde op.
Een vriendelijke bediende achter een moderne balie toonde ons de weg – een hoekje verder het museum en ginds het huis. Wees gerust, de Noren kennen het Engels.
9u02 of zoiets: “To billetter for voksne, Takk.” “Det er 220 NOK, takk… Vaer så snill.” We waren de eersten die dag.
Het museum stelde niet de composities centraal maar de context ervan, het leven van de componist. In het kleine videozaaltje weerklonk een pianoconcert. Een jonge man had net de band gestart. Verleid door de klanken en de veronderstelde instructieve video kozen we een plaats in de nog lege ruimte. Sfeerbeelden van het huis, de omgeving en de concertzaal waar een pianiste het bewuste stuk met liefde bracht, wisselden elkaar af. Leuk maar daarop volgde een concerto met eenzelfde reeks mooie plaatjes doch geen woord, geen verhaal. We besluiten thuis wel een cd op te zetten en de teksten naast de foto’s en de parafernalia te lezen. Het huis en de omgeving bewaren we voor later.
We leren Edvard Grieg kennen als een geliefd man en als een Noorse reus – figuurlijk dan. Hij werd geboren in de toen nog bedrijvige handelsstad Bergen. Stokvis uit de Lofoten verhandelde men richting het Iberisch schiereiland. Als telg uit een commerçanten geslacht (oorspronkelijk Schots, grootvader MacGriogair of Greig) groeide hij op met veel talent en kansen. Wat bij mij bleef hangen was de verbondenheid met het land. Zowel het landschap als de Noorse cultuur. Wat ik niet terugvind op internet maar me wel herinner, is dat zijn vader reeds aandacht had voor de tradities en het Noorse nationalisme. Zijn kleine gestalte en zijn rugprobleem waardoor hij steeds die typische houding aannam, kwamen ook nog ruim aan bod. Grote foto’s toonden zijn liefde voor de natuur en het Noorse Dasein. Kortom, Edvard Griegs leven samengevat.
Villaen – de villa – 9u36 ? de eerste bus luistert geduldig naar de gids.
Al bij al was de exposé best leuk en maakte het leven van deze beroemde componist een beetje tastbaar. Daar is het om te doen als je de man zijn huis wil bezoeken. Over een bruggetje staat een traditionele houten villa. Zijn echtgenote, Nina Hagerup toen een heel bekende zangeres, wenste eigenlijk een ‘modern’ huis, het was tenslotte 1885. Hij koos voor traditie. De villa is knus. De voormalige keuken is nu als ingang aangekleed met een suppoost en foto’s van de componist. Weldra dringen zich honderden mensen door de deur. Overal staat en hangt Edvard Grieg. Hierdoor lijken de eerste kamers op een schrijn of een prijzenkast. Ik denk dat ze al bij aanvang, toen de villa in 1928 een museum werd, Grieg-portretten zijn beginnen te verzamelden.
Hij leefde relatief klein behuisd, dacht ik. Na het overlijden van Alexandra op eenjarige leeftijd en een miskraam bleef het koppel kinderloos. In de woonkamer die aangekleed is à la mode du jour (en een hele reeks Grieg portretten) is het prettig vertoeven. De originele Steinway wacht nog steeds trouw op man- of vrouwlief. Ik denk dat Noren veel tijd binnen doorbrengen gezien het klimaat. De muziek vulde de huiselijke warmte aan. Nu hield een suppoost de vroege bezoekers in het oog. De veranda bleek de uitgang.
Dus al snel stonden we in de tuin die uitzicht bood op een baai met enkele eilanden. De kust is er heel rafelig. De Grimstadfjord loopt ver landinwaarts tot tegen Ny-Paradis (Nieuw-Paradijs), de Bergense wijk waar Troldhaugen deel van uitmaakt. De huizen zijn er navenant de naam. Het water spiegelde kalm en geduldig de omgeving die, overgeleverd aan de bouwwoede, een pokdalig aanzicht had gekregen. Ik vermoed dat de toondichter vooral groen op de eilanden zag. Toch blijft het uitzicht de moeite.
Komponisthytten & statue av Edvard Grieg – het blokhutje van de toondichter en diens beeld – wie weet hoe laat het ondertussen was?
We daalden af richting Komponisthytten dat tussen het hoger gelegen huis en een baai ligt. Het uitzicht moet ooit mooi geweest zijn, maar ook hier verstoort beton en het geraas van een snelweg de sfeer. De ‘hut’ zelf, afgesloten met veiligheidsglas, gunt je een blik op de werkstek. Je ziet het bureau, een rustbank en een grote stoof. Het ligt erbij alsof de man even terug naar het huis is gegaan voor de ‘lunsj’ (het middagmaal), tenminste als men aanneemt dat Edvard Grieg een heel ordelijk iemand was.
We wandelen terug omhoog langs de trappen die uitgeven op het concertzaaltje en het levensgrote beeld van de componist. Exact 152cm hoog kijkt hij naar de Noorse bergen – denk ik. Het is een kopij van het beeld dat sinds 1917 in Bergen zelf naar de bomen van het Byenspark tuurt. Ingebrigt Viks, een van de groote Noorse beeldhouwers (1867- 1927) kreeg de opdracht. Bij leven was Grieg een reus die Noorwegen op de muzikale kaart zette. Viks weergave van de man staart zich hier dood op het moderne museum en de vele bezoekers. Achter zijn rug om aan de overzijde van de baai verraadt een grote bouwkraan nog een project.
Eerlijk gezegd, Henrik Johan Ibsen, de auteur van Peer Gwynt, kreeg een veel indrukwekkender standbeeld nabij het theatergebouw van Den Nationale Scene in Bergen. Toegeven het werk Nils Raa siert Bergen pas vanaf 1981.
Gravstedet – Was het al 10u00? Het tijdsbesef was al lang weg.
We struinde onder het brugje dat het museum verbindt met het huis. En weerom dalen we af. Rechts naar een klein haventje en links langsheen de rots waarop het huis staat. We arriveren op een kleine pier. Een roeibootje dobbert. In het heldere water ontwaren we mosselen die wiegen met de krachteloze adem van de fjord. Ik stel me een vroege ochtend voor: een nog flauwe zon achter hoge wolken en nevelslierten over het water die de eilandjes half versluieren. Er is ruimte voor de geest, ruimte voor fantasie. In feite heet het bekende stuk dat in mijn hoofd klonk ‘Morgenstemning i ørkenen’. Het vertelt eigenlijk dat Peer Gwynt ontwaakt in de woestijn (ørkenen) nabij de zee ergens in Marokko. Enfin, voor mij klinkt de muziek heerlijk fris als een vochtige Noorse aubade.
Een toeriste neemt een foto van de rotswand. Pas dan merk ik de afdekstenen van het graf waarin de componist en diens eega rusten. Hoog genoeg zodat de horden bezoekers op eerbiedwaardige afstand hun godenslaap niet kunnen verstoren. Edvard Grieg is Jim Morrison niet. Het bescheiden grafmonument blijkt niet meer dan drie grote stenen in de rots die als een kleine dolmen de afdekplaat in van eenzelfde steen vasthouden. Romantiek en dus niet zonder knipoog naar het rotsige Noorwegen waar hij en zijn muziek wortel schoten. Dat grillige landschap bescheiden bevolkt door de Noren en met nog veel plaats voor trollen en al die andere wezens die er nog steeds stiekem rondwaren.
Troldhaugen betekent zoveel als Trollenheuvel. En zo klatert meteen ook dat andere stukje uit de Peer Gwynt suite door mijn hoofd: I Dovregubbens hall (De hallen van de bergkoning). Weet je, de noeste bergketen en beschermd natuurpark Dovrefjellet met de toenmalige hoogste Noorse berg (bleek achteraf niet de hoogste te zijn) de Snøhetta (2286m), heeft echt wel het aanzicht van een trollenland. Gubbe betekent zoveel als de (oude) man of de ouwe baas. Dus daar in dat natuurpark van de bergen van Dorve staat de hal van de ouwe trollenbaas en hier in Troldhaugen woonde hij.
Edvard Hagerup Grieg verloor jammer genoeg zijn dochters. Zijn geesteskinderen leven nog steeds.
Misschien zijn de trollen van weleer verdwenen maar hij slaagde er wel in om duizenden toeristen en fans naar zijn hal te lokken. En elke dag krioelen ze als trollen over de ‘haug’. Die dekselse oude baas.
Toeristenuur 1
Tegen de tijd dat we onze rondgang wensten af te sluiten met een koffie in het ruime bezoekerscentrum met cafetaria, museum en obligaat winkeltje, zwermde enkele busladingen Amerikanen het domein op. Sommigen bleven meteen hangen in de nering. De dag ving nu werkelijk aan. De morgenstemming verdween sneller dan de sneeuw voor de Noorse zon. Ik zoom uit en hoor als soundtrack I Dovregubbens hall.
Terug op de parking wachten reeds enkele bussen en een andere komt net aan. De grote cruiseboten verschepen hele drommen vakantiegangers naar de highlights of Norway. Wees vroeg als je de trollenheuvel nog voor jezelf wil hebben.
Wij togen terug landinwaarts richting dat andere natuurpark de Hardangervidda. Die desolate zompige hoogvlakte ten oosten van Bergen waar geen levende ziel in woont… of toch.
Toem -ta, Toem-ta, … paratitatititie, titatie, titatie …
Tusen Takk, Edvard Grieg
Meer info: griegmuseum.no/en
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